Inspiration Behind the Fragrance
Two perspectives on the flower
A narrative woven through with memories and emotions, or pure aesthetics explored through careful study.
From the moment of finding inspiration in a flower, to selecting the finest raw materials, to weaving narratives into floral compositions—discover in this editorial the journey of two master perfumers as they move between rich imagination and obsession with their craft.
I. The Flowers
A shared inspiration—flowers—guides these two legendary master perfumers, yet their approaches diverge: “fiction,” capturing memories and emotions, and “nonfiction,” revealing the fundamental beauty discovered through study. The result is a floral collection that distills the essence of NONFICTION into a refined, evocative fragrance.
Flowers are pure emotion. They can stir memories, moods, and sensations in an instant.They go beyond beauty; they are a way of storytelling.My passion for flowers lies in capturing their soul and translating it intoa scent that resonates on the skin.
— Maurice Roucel
Flowers express emotion in its purest form. They have the power to instantly evoke memories, moods, and emotions.
For me, flowers are more than just beautiful beings; they represent a medium for storytelling.
Each flower has its own personality, and each expresses itself in a unique way in perfume.
Some are soft and transparent, while others are bright and stimulating.
I focus on capturing the soul within each flower and expressing it through scents and emotions that harmonize with the skin.
Flowers hold a special significance in my creations.They represent both beauty and the delicate balance within nature.There's a kind of magic to them. For a perfumer, flowers are an incrediblesource of inspiration.
— Dominique Ropion
For me, the best flowers to work with are those I enjoy the most,
especially those that embody multifaceted personalities within a fragrance signature.
Their delicate aspects and complexities provide a rich source of material, and
I delve deeper into exploring their lesser-known facets.
The richer the complexity and multifaceted nature of a flower, the more it becomes a source of exquisite fragrance.
For a perfumer, flowers are an inexhaustible source of inspiration.
What was your main focus in creating fragrances for the concept of “The Flowers?”
Maurice Roucel | Flowers are often associated with softness, delicacy, and a certain predictability with romantic notes. They tend to be light and airy. My mind immediately wandered to the idea of breaking the conventional perception of florals and revealing their hidden facets. I wanted to explore their more surprising, even provocative, aspects. My initial thoughts revolved around deconstructing floral notes and rebuilding them in a way that feels both natural and unconventional.
Dominique Ropion | Working around flowers is always a joy for me. Most people expect floral perfumes to be familiar and comforting, often evoking timeless elegance. To create surprising olfactory experiences, I think it’s important to explore innovative combinations and uncover less-known facets of the ingredients. I was particularly delighted with the collection’s concept, as it meant I had a wide spectrum of beauty and facets of flowers to explore, which had been mostly forgotten or hidden. It’s been a wonderful and enjoyable journey of studying, exploring, and seeking out undermined facets of flowers that are less commonly used in modern perfumery.
II. Memories of Scent
by Maurice Roucel
Young Memories sounds like it’s closely connected to particular memories from the past. What kind of young memories does this wildflower fragrance capture?
It’s about recreating a fleeting, joyful moment—running through fields, feeling the wind, the sun, the scent of nature. It’s the memory of childhood summers. Running freely in nature, the scent of crushed green leaves, fresh herbs, and warm woods. It’s that exhilarating mix of energy and nostalgia, where every moment feels full of possibility. The wildflowers are not delicate. They are wild, sunlit, and full of life. For Young Memories, it was about amplifying the green, raw side of wildflowers with mint and basil, rather than making them overly sweet or soft.
For Maurice Roucel, roses and wildflowers evoke warm memories and emotions, imprinted on the senses.
What does it mean to capture memories and emotions in floral fragrances?
Scent is one of the strongest triggers of memory—it has the ability to transport us instantly. When I create, I don’t just think about a note. I think about the feeling it evokes, the atmosphere it creates.
The Rose is the reimagination of a rose bouquet in full bloom. Could you describe what inspired the images and memories held within this rose bouquet scent?
The Rose captures the sensation of being surrounded by a lush bouquet, almost as if you are inside the flower. I wanted to craft a rose that feels alive, breathing, and textured. It’s inspired by the idea of roses at different stages of bloom—some fresh and dewy, others more velvety and honeyed, with a touch of spice. With The Rose, I wanted to bring out facets that are often overlooked. The crisp, almost citrusy brightness of the petals, the honeyed, slightly spicy depth of the absolute, with a touch of geranium.
III. Essence of Flowers
by Dominique Ropion
Iris Concrete offers a genderless fragrance crafted on natural allure of iris. What was your approach to capturing the flower’s essence?
Iris is both complex and delicate. The flower is a combination of floral, powdery, woody, and buttery notes. What I particularly love about iris is the balance and tension between its powdery aspect, mysterious facets, and its signature elegance. In addition to the refined delicacy of Iris Concrete, galbanum creates a feel of modernity in the fragrance with a touch of fresh, green, and slightly resinous notes. These vibrant and crisp facets contrast beautifully with the powdery and woody aspects of iris, offering a dynamic and contemporary scent profile.
Dominique Ropion chose iris and ylang ylang—his perennial favorites—to uncover lesser-known facets of the flowers, infusing them with a modern sensibility.
You crafted fragrances that capture the essence of flowers. Could you walk us through the process of studying and exploring that essence?
It takes a different perspective of looking at things with a mission to discover something that you don’t see. Looking at flowers from a different perspective means going beyond their commonly known olfactive profile. I wanted to explore the hidden facets and subtle nuances of certain flowers, such as ylang-ylang—somewhat forgotten in contemporary perfumery—or iris, which has complexities and contrasts you can play with.
Ylang-ylang is often associated with sensuality, yet “Bois d’Ylang” seems to reveal a newer, more modern side of this flower.
That’s exactly what I love about ylang-ylang—its multifaceted nature. Many people limit ylang-ylang to its sensual aspect, but it can offer so much more. I appreciate its deep, almost animalistic dimension. Paired with blond wood, it reveals a rich and modern floral touch. The fragrance is enhanced with tuberose absolute, which is a luxurious ingredient known for its rich and creamy floral scent. It blends well with other florals, adding depth and sensuality to fragrances. In Bois d’Ylang, tuberose absolute plays a crucial role in enhancing the fragrance’s overall depth and complexity. Its rich character adds a layer of sensuality and opulence to the scent. This ingredient complements the exotic appeal of ylang-ylang by introducing a lush, intoxicating floral note that makes the fragrance more captivating and luxurious.
IV. Ingredients for Floral Signatures
The elements that shape the floral fragrances
For master perfumers who in the endless pursuit of perfection and challenge, the finest raw materials themselves are a boundless source of inspiration. Exceptional ingredients from LMR and Maison Lautier 1975, renowned for their ability to capture the purity of nature, intertwine with the perfumers’ imaginative craft to create nuanced, floral stories.
THE
ROSE
Rose Absolute
Rose Absolute reveals distinct qualities depending on its origin. The Rose features an absolute extracted from Turkish Rose Damask, imparting a rich, opulent depth. Cultivated in Turkey’s unique microclimate with deep-rooted heritage, this exquisite absolute is blended with Bulgarian Rose Absolute, renowned for its vibrant freshness. Together, they create a more dimensional, textured bouquet.
Sandalwood Absolute
Incorporated to evoke roses in full bloom, sandalwood absolute enhances their velvety softness while adding a sense of grounding. Its warm, enveloping presence balances the floral brightness, creating a harmonious composition that lingers beautifully on the skin.
YOUNG
MEMORIES
Peppermint Oil
Peppermint oil lends Young Memories its fresh, vibrant opening. A natural hybrid of spearmint and water mint, it offers greener, more refreshing nuances compared to other mint varieties. Enhanced by the addition of hay notes, this ingredient captures the raw elegance and vitality of wildflowers.
Cedarwood Oil
Young Memories blends two types of cedarwood essential oil, among the finest natural cedarwood ingredients. While cedarwood is typically known for adding structure and depth, the combination of oils from the Atlas Mountains and Virginia enhances the fragrance’s complexity. The interplay of dry, woody notes evokes a natural, raw elegance.
IRIS
CONCRETE
Oris Concrete
Extracted from iris bulbs, orris concrete is a rare ingredient that requires four to six years of waiting. The distinctive depth and complexity of Iris Concrete come from blending two varieties: Iris germanica, with its soft, sweet notes reminiscent of butter and caramel, and Iris pallida, which lends a powdery floral nuance. Together, they unveil the multifaceted beauty of iris.
Ambrette Seeds
The ambrette seeds used in Iris Concrete are exceptional ingredients that enhance the fragrance’s unique complexity and depth. Its rich scent profile features musky, fruity, and floral powdery nuances, which are harmonized with iris to evoke a delicate softness. When paired with ambrette, iris amplifies its natural allure, accentuating the skin-like aroma.
BOIS d'
Ylang
Ylang-ylang Oil
The ylang-ylang oil used in Bois d’Ylang intensifies the spice and woody notes, leaving a lasting impression blended with blond wood. The Ylang Ylang III oil featured in the fragrance is extracted at the final stage of a 20-hour-long distillation process, capturing the complex nuances and distinctive allure that define ylang ylang.
Tuberose Absolute
Tuberose absolute accentuates the exotic allure of ylang ylang. Renowned for its rich, creamy floral scent, tuberose absolute melds seamlessly with ylang ylang, intensifying the fragrance and enhancing its complexities. The lush, intense floral note enhances the exotic appeal, making the fragrance even more captivating and luxurious