Inspiration Behind the Fragrance
For this collection, NONFICTION engaged in an extensive and profound dialogue with world-renowned master perfumer Maurice Roucel. Discover through our interview how the unique essence of each ingredient was carefully woven into NONFICTION’s narrative.
About The Collection
This collection began with "persona," one of the keywords that defines nonfiction brand stories.What was your own philosophical interpretation of this keyword?
Reading the brief, I realized that the concept of "persona," which nonfiction seeks to express, is a medium that projects inner essence and natural beauty. Musk immediately came to mind. Musk, capable of capturing the full spectrum of emotions, was the ideal material for expressing persona. The process of blending musk notes is like dropping a drop of ink into clear water. Depending on the perfumer's intention, ink can be expressed lightly and transparently or darkly and profoundly. Musk is the perfect raw material for expressing all nuances. It is a note with a very special quality that can capture almost every emotion and aspect of a human being. There is no better material to express the definition of "persona," drawn from the worldview of nonfiction that speaks of the aesthetics of inner self and essence.
This collection began with one of the key elements of NONFICTION’s brand: the idea of the “persona.” What was your own philosophical interpretation of this concept?
When reviewing the brief, I understood NONFICTION’s concept of a “persona” to be a reflection of one’s inner essence and natural beauty. Musk immediately came to mind. With its ability to capture the full spectrum of emotions, musk felt like the ideal material to express persona. Composing with musk is like dropping ink into clear water. Depending on the perfumer’s intention, the ink might spread translucently or bloom into a deeper, richer hue. In the same way, musk has a unique ability to convey nuance. It is a note with the rare capacity to embody nearly the entire range of human emotions and states of being. There could be no better ingredient to interpret NONFICTION’s vision of the persona—an aesthetic of inner truth and essence.
You also mentioned that musk had to be the common denominator of both fragrances.
Musk provides a neutral foundation that allows the unique character of each fragrance to fully emerge—just as a painter can more delicately express the true radiance of colors on a blank canvas. For me, musk is like that white canvas, which is why I so enjoy working with it.
Both perfumes evoke specific colors, particularly beige and gray. What feelings did you want to convey with each fragrance?
Imagine this scene: a seductive silhouette of a woman in a black dress appears in a dark room. The moment the lights come on, it's revealed that what's wrapped around her is actually a pure white dress. Isn't that fascinating? They present completely different images, yet they're both hers. I wanted to capture these contrasts within a single person—they can be both seductive and elegant, sensual and pure—and the afterimages that exist between them, all in the colors of beige and gray. The Beige pays homage to white musk. Its near-whiteness is accented with woody and floral notes, and the addictive sweetness of tonka bean creates a warm beige mood. It feels incredibly soft and natural against the skin. The Gray is a more sensual fragrance, with a more complex blend of dark musk, floral notes of magnolia, and osmanthus. The chic undertones of cypriol and the nuances of leather add a sophisticated touch. They embody the color gray, a color that exists in a spectrum of infinite hues and shades between white and black. Both fragrances embody timeless chic, embodying restrained yet refined elegance.
Both fragrances carry the concrete imagery of colors—beige and gray. What feelings did you hope to express through each?
Imagine this scene: in a darkened room, the captivating silhouette of a woman appears, clad in a black dress. But when the lights come on, it’s revealed that she is in fact wrapped in a pure, white gown. Interesting, isn’t it? Two completely distinct impressions, yet both are hers. Within a single person there lives such contrasting sides—seductive yet graceful, sensual yet pure—and it was these lingering nuances that I sought to capture in the colors beige and gray.
The Beige is an homage to white musk. Nearly white in its impression, it is warmed with woody and floral accents, then touched with the addictive sweetness of tonka bean, creating the soft, glowing mood that we know as beige. It melds seamlessly on the skin with a tender, natural intimacy.
The Grey is more provocative. Dark musk is intertwined with magnolia and osmanthus for a layered floral depth, while cypriol and subtle leather nuances lend a sleek sophistication. Like the infinite gradations of tone and saturation that lie between black and white, The Grey embodies that spectrum.
Together, the two fragrances symbolize timeless chic—an elegance both restrained and refined.
Were there any references that inspired the composition of this collection?
Both fragrances resonate with the elegance found in Milan Kundera’s novel The Unbearable Lightness of Being. Sophistication lies in simplicity, while refinement and elegance can only be discovered within the simplest of things.
The Charm of the Musk Note
Musk notes are often described as "the closest thing to body odor, the scent closest to natural body odor." Will we experience that same feeling in this collection, "a scent that seems to rise from my natural skin"?
A perfume truly reveals its personality when it comes into contact with skin. This is true for both fragrances in this collection, but The Beige in particular is a truly beautiful example of a fragrance that blends with skin. Only when I smell this scent on the skin of someone I deeply understand and am deeply intimate with will I fully grasp the purity and naturalness we intended.
Musk is often described as “the scent closest to the skin, the fragrance of one’s own body.” In this collection, can we also expect that feeling of “a scent that seems to rise naturally from one’s own skin”?
A fragrance only reveals its true character once it meets the skin. This is true of both perfumes in the collection, but The Beige is perhaps the perfect example of how a scent can merge seamlessly with the skin. When you recognize this fragrance on the skin of someone you are deeply familiar and intimate with, only then can you fully understand the purity and naturalness we intended to capture.
Your portfolio includes many beloved works that center on musk. Could we say that musk represents an important part of your persona as a perfumer?
Over the years I have worked with an immense palette and always sought diversity. My persona as a perfumer cannot be reduced to a single image, yet musk has consistently been a material I find joy in exploring. Among my many personas, it is certainly “one of the most captivating facets.” I am always drawn to its transparency, its neutrality, and its ability to enable boundless creation.
A Master Perfumer's Persona
You experienced your first collaboration with a Korean perfume brand through non-fiction.
I find the nonfiction work fascinating in its exploration of and approach to the subject of "inner self." The very essence of its purpose is also reflected in its name. Korean consumers, as much as they appreciate the subtle storytelling of brands, also possess a refined and refined olfactory palate. While maintaining my own signature style, I aimed to fully capture the inspiration for this elegant sensibility shared by brands and consumers within the collection.
How would you describe your "persona" as a perfumer? I'm also curious about how you hope to be remembered in the future.
Passion, experience, and collaboration—these are the forces that have made me a better perfumer. I always strive to create with greater precision and rigor, and to present more concise formulas. I also cherish the inspiration and energy I receive from diverse people. I would be incredibly happy to be remembered as a "passionate perfumer."
Through NONFICTION, you experienced your first collaboration with a Korean fragrance brand.
I find NONFICTION’s way of contemplating and approaching the theme of “the inner self” fascinating—and the fact that its pursuit is reflected so clearly in the name. Korean consumers understand the brand’s delicate storytelling, and their olfactory preferences are equally refined and sophisticated. While staying true to my own signature style, I sought to fully infuse this collection with the sense of elegance inspired by both the brand and its consumers.
How would you describe your own “persona” as a perfumer? And how would you like to be remembered in the future?
Passion, experience, and collaboration. These are the forces that have made me a better perfumer. I always strive to create with greater precision and discipline, to present ever-simpler formulas, and to cherish the inspiration and energy I receive from diverse people. If I could be remembered as a “passionate perfumer,” nothing would bring me more joy.
Over the past 50 years, you have worked as a perfumer, many of them under the distinguished title of master perfumer, creating more than 150 works. What guiding philosophy or principle remains with you most strongly today?
“Experience.” That, above all, has been my greatest teacher. With age, inspiration comes alive with greater ability, and creation flows with more freedom. Every work is a timeless experience.